Country Cooking of Italy by Colman Andrews

Author:Colman Andrews
Language: eng
Format: epub, mobi
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2011-03-24T16:00:00+00:00

THE LITTLEST LOBSTER

The miniature lobsters the Italians call scampi are delicious cooked in olive oil, garlic, and white wine. They are even better lightly floured and deep-fried, however, or in risotto, and the larger ones grill superbly. Scampi have a sweet flavor with a tinge of salt; I find them addictive. Although they are comparatively scarce in most of the Mediterranean, they are fished with some regularity in the Adriatic, and are thus most often seen in the Veneto (any fritto misto in Venice or the islands of the lagoon worthy of the name includes them) and in coastal Emilia-Romagna and the Marche.

The word scampo in Italian also means “escaped.” The American chef Lydia Shire plays on the homonymic relationship in the name of her Italianate Scampo restaurant in Boston, which is lodged in a hotel built around a former jail. The seafood called scampo, though, seems to have borrowed its name from the Greek word kampe, meaning a “bending” or “winding”—presumably a reference to the way it curls up when stripped of its shell and cooked.

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